Monday, 16 January 2012

Kenya field class

This seems like a good time to dip a toe in the blogosphere. I am just back from a field class in Kenya as part of the MPHID course I am doing part time at Sheffield University. About thirty of us travelled from Heathrow to Nairobi, then drove to a rather nice "lodge" to recuperate for an afternoon and evening before continuing to the field research centre. The standard of transport was OK (for Africa) and we weren't too uncomfortable, some of the roads are dreadful but others are fine. There is no railway into the north so there is very heavy road traffic toiling up the steep slopes of the Rift Valley causing delays and huge ruts in the tarmac. We stopped to look over the valley which is a wide plain with high hills to east and west and, this being a Geography trip, received a mini-lecture on tectonic plates and geology.

Marich Pass field research station is an excellent centre in a rather arid location, though beside the river. However six of us had opted to go further and climb to the village about 1000m higher with a teacher and a local guide. Another early start and a punishing climb saw us reach our destination in four hours, before the sun got to full strength. I'm afraid I was the slowest member of the party; I found carrying a heavy bag made a big difference. I made up for it on the descent. We were shocked to see an overturned 4x4 vehicle on the track but later learned that the driver and passenger did not seem to have been seriously injured. We were pleased that the decision had been made that we would walk up! Last year's students travelled in a similar vehicle.

I found the mountain location extremely pleasant and it would make a good holiday destination for people who love walking. The welcome in the camp is second to none. Conditions are a bit basic but can be negotiated. I love being in the mountains and always feel refreshed and peaceful.

We were each doing our individual research projects. I was talking to mothers and carers of young children about their health and health care, and to local providers of conventional or traditional treatments and interventions. I did nearly twenty interviews and a group discussion. Other colleagues looked at water projects, land use and deforestation, food security and mining. We had local guides/translators to help us. I found that the main health problems are malaria, diarrhoeal diseases and respiratory infections/pneumonia, and that people use an eclectic mix of traditional and conventional treatments, deciding which service to use on the basis of how severe the illness is, cost and distance and what treatments they think will work best.

We spent four nights there and then returned to Marich to rejoin our colleagues. I participated in the football match against local youth, which we were proud and surprised to win 1-0 (Wazungu Warriors!!), after spending most of my Kenya shillings on crafts in the little market. Later we had a very atmospheric BBQ on the beach under the starriest sky, with additional fireflies and a local musician who made up in stamina what he lacked in repertoire. Tusker beer was consumed in large quantities and a good time had.

The drive back to Nairobi was less than pleasant, and we were anxious because of the reported imminent terrorist threat. Needless to say I lived.

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